An opener job is set by the door before it is set by the opener. Walk to the garage door and check four things before you ask anyone for a scope.
- Door weight and balance. A heavier or taller door usually calls for a stronger drive. Note the door type and any insulated or glass panels.
- Track and hardware. Bent track sections or worn rollers add setup time. Ask whether the installer will check and correct them as part of the scope.
- Power. Note where the outlet sits and whether it is on a suitable circuit. Ask whether a new outlet or a relocated one is included.
- Headroom and mounting. The ceiling space above the door sets the rail type and the mounting path. Low ceilings and tall doors change the bracket work.
Then look at the removal of the old unit, the safety sensors and the reversing feature, the placement of the wall control or keypad, and the remote programming. Each of these can move the job up or down.
Ask for the scope in writing. Ask whether the old unit is removed and hauled away. Ask whether the door balance is checked before the new unit is fitted. Ask how the sensors and the reversing feature are tested at the end of the job. Ask whether the work includes any spring adjustment.
Spring work belongs with a trained technician. Do not attempt it yourself, even if the rest of the job is yours.
The garage door opener page shows the typical service life, which tells you when to plan the job. The checks above tell you how big the job is. Keep those two questions separate.