Walk the washer in the order the job needs. Each step sets up the next one, so the water, the drain, and the level are settled before the drum starts to turn.
Clear the path and the back
Measure the route from the door to the spot, including the doorway and any turn. Remove the shipping bolts and spacers from the back before you power up. Keep them in a bag taped to the top of the unit, because you will need them if the washer is ever moved.
Level the machine
Set the feet so the washer sits flat with no rocking on any corner. Check level side to side and front to back. A washer that is out of level can walk and shake during the spin cycle, so this step matters more than it looks.
Connect the water and the drain
Attach the hot and cold supply hoses to the faucet valves and the washer inlets, hand tight first, then snug with a wrench. Mark which hose is hot. Route the drain hose so it does not kink, and place its end in the standpipe or sink tailpiece as the manual shows. Secure the hose so it does not pop out during a drain.
Power and the test run
Plug into a grounded outlet that the machine has to itself, not a shared strip. Turn on the water and look at every joint for drips. Run an empty drum on the short cycle the manual names, and watch the drain and the door seal. Check for water under the machine when the run ends.
Clear the setup before you load
Confirm the drum spins without knocking, the drain empties the tub, and no joint weeps. Then load a light test batch. Keep the manual with the washer and note where the water shutoff valves are, so you can find them later without searching.
For the typical service life of this machine and how to plan around it, see the clothes washer guide.